What springs and cables do
Before the troubleshooting questions, it helps to understand the job these parts perform. Most confusion disappears once the basic idea is clear.
The spring balances the weight of the door. A typical door weighs far more than a person could lift comfortably, yet it rises with a gentle push because the spring carries most of the load. The opener mostly guides the motion. Without a working spring, the opener is asked to do work it was never built for.
Cables run from the bottom corners of the door up to drums or pulleys, depending on the spring system. As the spring turns or stretches, the cables wind or move and lift the door evenly on both sides. A cable that frays or slips off its drum can make the door lift unevenly or drop one side.
Torsion springs are mounted on a bar above the door and twist to store energy. Extension springs run along the horizontal tracks and stretch and contract. Torsion systems tend to lift more smoothly and are common on newer doors. Our comparison page sets out how torsion and extension springs differ in more detail.
Look above the closed door. A long steel bar with one or two coiled springs mounted across it, usually near the center, means torsion. Long thin springs running alongside the side tracks mean extension. If you are unsure, take a clear photo from a safe distance and send it with your message. Do not climb or touch anything to take it.
The number depends on the door's weight and height, and on how the system was designed. Heavier doors usually need two springs sharing the load. Two springs can also keep the door more evenly balanced, and if one breaks the other may still hold, though the door will behave strangely. Do not keep using a door after one breaks.
Yes. Springs are matched to the weight and height of the door, and cables to the drums and the lift. Two doors that look the same can need different springs because of added insulation, windows or a heavier finish. That is why a technician measures and checks before ordering, and why guessing at a replacement part is risky.
No. Many people assume the opener lifts the door, but the spring does most of the lifting and the opener simply starts, steers and stops the motion. You can hear the opener running while the door stays shut if the spring has failed. Each part has its own role in the system.
Why springs break
A spring is a consumable part. Understanding why it fails helps you plan and avoid being caught out.
Every time the door opens and closes, the spring winds and unwinds, and metal slowly tires. Eventually it fatigues and breaks, usually at one point along the coil. Rust, heavy doors, poor balance and a lack of lubrication shorten the life. Springs are rated for a number of cycles, which is why heavier use wears them out sooner.
There is no single answer, because it depends on the spring's rating, the door's weight, how often you use it and how it is looked after. A door used several times a day wears a spring faster than one opened once. The label or a technician's measurement tells you the rating. Our guide on how long springs last goes deeper.
It can. Coastal air speeds up corrosion, and rust weakens the metal and roughens the surface, which promotes cracking. Homes near the water on the barrier island or along the river see more of this. Regular wiping, appropriate lubrication and periodic inspection slow the process, but they cannot stop wear that comes from use.
Yes. Time and corrosion affect springs even when the door is hardly used. A seldom-used door in a humid garage can still develop rust, and a spring that has sat for years may be near the end of its life. If the door has been idle for a long time, have it looked at before relying on it.
You cannot prevent it forever, but you can delay it. Keep the door balanced, lubricate moving parts as advised, repair noisy or binding hardware promptly and have the springs inspected on a regular schedule. A technician can also warn you when a spring is showing wear, so you can plan the replacement instead of being surprised.
A repair to another part does not shorten a spring's life by itself, but it can reveal a spring that was already near the end. Springs installed together tend to wear at similar rates, which is why replacing both is often sensible. If a new spring fails very early, it may have been the wrong size for the door.
Signs and sounds of a failed spring
Springs rarely give much warning, but a few signs are worth knowing. They help you decide what to do and what not to do.
A sharp bang from the garage, like a firecracker or a dropped heavy object, is the classic sign. Some people mistake it for a car backfiring. Afterward the door often will not lift, or feels extremely heavy. Our page on a spring that snapped with a loud bang explains what to do next.
Look from a safe distance for a visible gap in the coil, usually a few inches wide. You may see a separated section or one half hanging loose. The door may also sit slightly crooked, the opener may strain, or the emergency cord may feel odd. Do not touch the spring to check.
That is a very common sign. The opener motor runs, yet the door either does not move or rises only a short way and stops. The spring is no longer carrying the weight, so the opener meets too much resistance. Stop pressing the button repeatedly, since that wears the opener out.
With the opener disconnected, a door should lift with moderate effort. If it feels like dead weight, the springs have lost their strength. This is also why you should not try to lift a heavy door by yourself. Do not force it, and ask someone to help only if the door is already open and secure.
Yes. Springs can lose tension over time, so the door starts to drift down by itself, closes with a thud or opens slower. These signs show the balance has changed, even though nothing has visibly broken. The drift is a clear signal to have the door checked soon. Our page on a door that drifts or falls describes the pattern.
Squeaking or creaking from the coil often means it is dry or rusted, not broken. A technician can inspect it and apply the right lubricant. A groaning or twanging sound with visible stretching, though, may mean extension springs or safety cables are under stress. Either way, note the sound and have it examined before it escalates.
Safety and what to do after a break
This is the section to read before you do anything. The advice is simple: keep clear, keep others clear and ask for help.
It is a safety matter, not a panic matter. The door will usually stay where it is, but nobody should walk under it or try to force it. If the door is closed and the car is inside, you may not be able to get out. Keep calm, avoid pulling or lifting, and contact us to arrange a visit.
We strongly advise against it. Winding or unwinding a spring involves forces that cause serious injuries every year, and the job needs specific tools and training. Buying the wrong spring size is also easy. Please leave all springs, cables and brackets to a trained technician and use your time on safe checks instead.
No. Even with two springs, the remaining one is not meant to carry the whole door. Using the opener forces the motor and can bend parts or drop the door. Keep it closed if possible, and do not open it by hand unless a technician has told you how to do so safely.
If the door is fully closed, you may pull the red emergency release only if you can do it safely, but do not lift the door yourself. A door without spring support is far too heavy. If the vehicle is essential, tell us when you contact us, and the technician will plan the visit with that in mind.
Keep people, pets and vehicles clear and do not stand beneath it. A partly open door can drop if a part fails. Do not release the opener or try to close it by hand. Place a note or barrier to keep others away, and ask for professional help right away.
Call 911 first, always. Do not try to pull a person out from under a door or lift a heavy door yourself unless there is immediate danger and a safe method. Once everyone is safe, you can contact us to arrange a visit. The door will stay as it is until a technician arrives and checks it.
Cable questions
Cables are thin, strong and easy to overlook. When one fails, the door can twist, drop on a corner or come off its track.
Cables fray because of wear against the drum, rust from humid air, rubbing on a misaligned part or simply age. Strands break one by one, and the visible fuzz or broken wires are the warning. A frayed cable can snap with little notice, so do not wait if you can see damage.
The cable has lost its seat in the groove, often because the door was running loose, the cable lost tension, or something caught it. The door will then lift unevenly or tilt. Do not operate it. The cable, drum and sometimes the bottom bracket need to be checked and reset by a technician.
Yes. A cable with slack can slip, snag or let one side of the door fall. It also means the system is not sharing the load, which stresses other parts. Our page on a cable snapped or off the drum explains what you might see and what to avoid doing.
No. Cable tension is linked to the spring tension and to the position of the door, and adjusting one without the other can cause sudden movement. Even simple-looking brackets hold heavy loads. The technician has the tools to hold the door safely and set tension correctly. Please do not try to adjust cables.
That usually shows a problem such as a stretched cable, a slipped drum, a bent bottom bracket or a door that has shifted. The door may be lopsided as a result. Compare both sides from the floor without touching anything, and take a photo if you can, which helps us understand before arriving.
Often, though it depends on their condition. Cables wear with use, and since the door is already secured during a spring replacement, checking and renewing worn cables at the same time can make sense. The technician will show you the state of the cables and explain whether replacement is needed or optional.
Replacement, choices and upgrades
When a spring or cable does need replacing, there are decisions to make. These answers help you understand them.
When two springs share the load and one breaks, the other has done the same amount of work and is usually near the end of its life too. Replacing both keeps the balance even and avoids a second visit. The technician will inspect the remaining spring and tell you what they see.
Springs differ in wire size, coil length and cycle rating, and some are rated for more openings than standard ones. A higher rating can suit a busy door, though it must still be sized for the door's weight. Ask the technician about rated cycles, and read our page on spring conversion and upgrade if you want options.
Sometimes. A conversion changes the lifting system, adding a torsion bar and brackets above the door. It can give smoother lift and often better containment if a spring breaks, but the door, header space and tracks must suit it. A technician needs to see the opening before advising.
A safety cable runs through the middle of an extension spring and is fixed at both ends, so if the spring snaps it does not whip across the garage. It is a simple protective part, and many older doors lack one. Ask the technician whether your extension springs have them and whether they are in good shape.
It should feel smoother and lighter, and balanced when lifted by hand. If the new spring is wrongly sized, the door will feel heavy or fly upward. The technician tests balance after installation by lifting the door and watching how it holds. Tell us if anything feels different after a visit.
Yes, because the spring must carry more weight on every cycle. Adding insulation, windows or a thicker finish changes the balance the original springs were chosen for. If you upgrade the door, the springs should be matched to the new weight. A technician can weigh the door or work from its label before choosing.
An inconsistent close usually points to changing spring tension, a dry hinge or roller, or a cable that is catching. It can also come from opener travel settings. Because the pattern changes, watch for when it happens and tell the technician. Do not keep running a door that slams down.
It can. Damp air leaves a thin film of moisture and surface rust on coils, and the coils then squeal or creak as they rub against each other. A technician may treat the spring with the correct lubricant. If the sound changes to a clunk or a bang, treat it differently and call us.
Look for someone who explains the work and shows you the worn part, and who will talk about balance, cables and safety, not only sell a spring. Our contact page is the place to start, and our broken torsion spring repair page describes how the work is approached.
Tell us whether the door is open or closed, what you heard, whether the opener runs, and which side of the door looks lower. A photo of the spring area taken from a safe distance is useful, and so is a note about door size and whether there are windows or insulation. These details speed up the diagnosis.